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STEP BY STEP CLOSER TO HEAVEN

The Ötztal is THE (granite) climbing region par excellence in Tyrol. In no other valley are dreamlike climbing areas and via ferrata as close together as in the Ötztal. In 19 climbing gardens you can live out your vertical urge on around 750 routes. 8 via ferrata routes and an abundance of multi-pitch tours make you fit in the rock. The certified local climbing and mountain guides, who will accompany you on your way up, will make sure of that. You will also learn from the best during the annual Ötztal climbing camp. The enormous climbing competence of the region is also expressed in the specialized climbing accommodations.

 

You don't go drinking coffee after climbing. Drinking coffee is an integral part of climbing.

Wolfgang Güllich

Direttissima into happiness

Hundreds of perfectly secured sports climbing routes of all levels of difficulty, spread over 19 climbing gardens from the valley entrance near Haiming to the valley end in Obergurgl-Hochgurgl, make the Ötztal an El Dorado for all rock sports enthusiasts. The solid granite rock is predominant, and climbing cracks on Tyrol's longest side valley particularly appreciate it. Beginners and families with children will find perfect conditions in the Oberried climbing garden, for example, to venture into the vertical for the first time, while ambitious climbers will find their luck - and their projects - in the Niederthai and Nösslach areas.

 

Climbing in the Ötztal valley

Decades of climbing expertise

Ötztal can look back on decades of climbing expertise that is hard to beat. The most important pioneer was Reinhard Schiestl († 1995) from Längenfeld, who began to develop Ötztal in terms of climbing technology in the early 1980s – he created a dense network that has grown to more than 750 routes until today. Schiestl also went down in Tirol’s climbing history by opening Ötztal’s first sports climbing route in the 9th degree of difficulty (according to the UIAA scale) at the beginning of the 1980s. The climbing mastermind has never been forgotten: the Reinhard Schiestl Via Ferrata on Burgsteinwand rock face near Längenfeld still reminds of his great achievements.

Granite and limestone go hand in hand in Ötztal

Tirol boasts only a few granite climbing areas. Ötztal is an exception and offers solid granite rocks in several regions – for example in the climbing areas of Niederthai or Nösslach, to mention just two of the numerous granite climbing gardens. If you literally want to bite on granite, you'll find a welcome change in several limestone climbing areas near Haiming at the entrance to the valley.

Climbing gardens for families and beginners

In Ötztal there are several climbing areas which are especially worthwhile for beginners and families with children. What do all these climbing gardens have in common? Ample parking, short and easy access, a variety of easy and well-secured routes, picture-book picnic areas and a natural backdrop that captivates climbing fans of all ages. What’s best, the climbing garden in Oberried is also equipped with sanitary facilities.

Family-friendly climbing gardens in Ötztal:

- Rammelstein
- Ritzlerhof
- Oetz
- Oberried
- Moosalm
- Winnebachseehütte (access route: 1.5 hrs!)
- Obergurgl Zirbenwald

Which quality criteria has a family-friendly climbing garden to fulfill? Read all details HERE

 

A helpful service checklist on "Climbing with Children", prepared in cooperation with the Austrian Alpine Club, the Austrian Mountain Rescue Service and the Austrian Alpine Safety Board, can be found HERE

Multi-pitch routes in Ötztal

One rope length is not enough for you? No problem at all! Ötztal has a wealth of breathtaking multi-pitch routes which are - similar to the climbing gardens – spread over the entire valley. In addition to the Geierwand rock wall located in Haiming, the Simmering and the Burgsteinwand near Längenfeld, multi-pitch fans will find both spectacular and well-secured routes especially in Nösslach and on Engelswand near Tumpen. 

„Great Lines“ for true climbing aficionados

In 2018, a jury of experts chose Tirol’s five most outstanding sport climbing routes for advanced climbers, the so-called "Great Lines". The main selection criteria were the following: nature and landscape experience, course of the climbing route, type of rock as well as the climber’s physical and mental requirements. Two routes in Ötztal have made it to the illustrious circle of "Great Lines": the "Le Miracle" route (interne Verlinkung) in Niederthai and the multi-faceted "White Giant" (interne Verlinkung) climbing route in Nösslach’s climbing garden.

Topos and further information can be found on the website of Climbers Paradise

Climbing halls and bad weather alternatives

In case of rain or inclement weather climbing fans in Ötztal don’t have to do without their favorite sport. On the contrary: Tirol's longest side valley offers climbers of all skill levels a number of bad weather alternatives – ranging from the world-famous climbing and bouldering hall in nearby Imst (Inntal valley) to the rain-protected bridge pier with lead climbing area at the AREA 47 outdoor playground.

 

AREA 47: Lead climbing area & boulder cave

The AREA 47 outdoor playground at the entrance to Ötztal offers climbers a number of opportunities also in (light) rain: There is a 27 meter high lead climbing area at the Achbrücke bridge pier and a varied Boulder Cave on the landscaped lake. A high ropes garden completes the offer. Learn more about the AREA 47 climbing options HERE.

Imst Indoor Climbing Hall

In nearby Imst, not far from Ötztal, you’ll find one of Tirol’s largest climbing and bouldering halls. The World Cup hall offers 1100 m2 of climbing surface and an additional 240 m2 bouldering area. Get all details HERE.

Steinblock Imst Indoor Bouldering Hall

Also the Steinblock bouldering hall is located in Imst: On 750 m2 there are both child-friendly and competitive boulder routes. Learn more about the bouldering hall HERE.

 

Boulder and climbing hall Telfs

Our tip for all boulder fans is the climbing hall in Telfs.

Since July 2016 there is the mountain station, which was realized in cooperation with the market community Telfs, Land Tirol, tourism association and alpine association. This was built south of the existing tennis hall at the Telfs sports centre and is operated by the Alpenverein Hohe Munde Betreiber GmbH.

The mountain station is a place of similarities! It is a meeting place for mountain sports enthusiasts of all generations, who appreciate the exchange with like-minded people and a respectful cooperation regardless of their level of performance and ability. A place where not only climbers feel at home!

On approx. 1400 m² of climbing area, they offer you around 180 bouldering problems, 100 rope routes, their own course and training area as well as a place for the little ones with slide and bouldering paradise. A central meeting point is also the cosy bistro where you will be spoiled with healthy and regional delicacies and invited to stay together. The coffee specialities with beans from the Wildkaffee roasting house or the beer selection from the oldest private brewery in the Zillertal have already made a name for themselves far outside Telfs.


Find out more about the Boulderhalle HERE.

First time in the climbing hall. I was told to abseil first.
Now I am banned from the house

Tightrope act included

In close touch with the Ötztal mountains: secured on a wire rope, Ötztal’s 8 via ferratas take you (steeply) uphill. Stepladders cut into in the rock show you the way to the top, quite a few key sections require strength, skill and courage. You will cross rope bridges, climb along waterfalls and conquer steel ladders. Beginner-friendly and well secured trails are also suitable for children, introducing them to climbing sports safely and in a playful way – for example along the Stuibenfall via ferrata, Tirol's biggest waterfall. Real experts and connoisseurs enjoy spectacular opportunities on Burgsteinwand rock wall in Längenfeld or in the rear Ötztal.

 

3 Via ferrata tips in Ötztal

Ötztal offers the right climbing route for via ferrata fans of all ability levels - as an example of the versatile offer, we will present three of them:

For children & beginners: Stuibenfall Via Ferrata
The scenic via ferrata at the 159 meter high Stuiben Falls (Tirol's biggest waterfall) in Umhausen-Niederthai is probably the easiest within the area as it features a climbing length of only 450 meters. However, it is one of the most spectacular: Even the access route leads over a rope bridge and into a fairytale forest – only later you reach the impressive walls before getting in touch with the water spray of the Stuiben Falls. A tightrope walk over the roaring waters is included but only if you want! For children (from 10 years onwards, incl. additional safety rope) and beginners the via ferrata is well suited since there are many stepladders. All details about the Stuibenfall Via Ferrata can be found HERE

More beginner and family-friendly via ferrata routes: Haiming / Geierwand Via Ferrata which also offers a midi and mini variant; Zirbenwald Via Ferrata in Obergurgl-Hochgurgl (suitable for children over 10 years); Moosalm Via Ferrata in Sölden with alternative and easy exit.

For advanced climbers: Reinhard Schiestl Via Ferrata

Awe inspiring: The Reinhard-Schiestl via ferrata on the almost vertical Burgsteinwand rock wall near Längenfeld is a difficult via ferrata tour for real aficionados. Beautifully exposed, equipped with many stepladders and two rest areas, this climbing adventure offers superb views of Ötztal. All important details about the via ferrata on Burgsteinwand can be found HERE.

For true experts conquering new heights: Schwärzenkamm Via Ferrata
A wonderful panoramic via ferrata at the heart of Obergurgl’s glacier world. Although the route has no unconquerable difficulties it is fairly challenging and requires climbing experience due to its high Alpine and north-facing location. Two emergency exits also make it possible to shorten the route. Special tip: You can easily reach Langtalereckütte by (E)bike, from where you continue on foot to the via ferrata’s access point. More details about the Schwärzenkamm via ferrata can be found HERE.

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